On Saturday night time in Paris, Dries Van Noten took his remaining bow after an illustrious 38-year profession on the helm of his eponymous label. It was an emotional night—one which the style business has been bracing itself for because the Belgian designer elegantly introduced that he was stepping down from his position as inventive director in March. Longtime pals and followers made the pilgrimage to a warehouse exterior of Paris to pay their respects—the identical venue the place Van Noten confirmed his fiftieth runway assortment in October 2004. Within the crowd had been fellow members of the “Antwerp Six,” Ann Demeulemeester and Walter van Beirendonck, in addition to designers Thom Browne, Pierpaolo Piccioli, Haider Ackermann, and Diane von Furstenberg.
“As we speak, I placed on a Dries swimsuit I purchased as a pupil in Antwerp, however then I found that I’m not the identical dimension as I used to be once I was a pupil anymore,” mentioned Y/Venture designer Glenn Martens. He was considered one of many who dressed, or a minimum of tried to decorate, on theme for the occasion. The emotional connection Van Noten’s garments encourage in lots of was on full show. “It’s an merchandise I’d by no means throw out,” Martens continued. “It’s brown wool with yellow pearl embroidery. It’s very attractive. Like everybody else, I’m going to go to the shop this coming season to get all of the final items as a result of I’m actually going to overlook this perfection and poetry.”
Within the days main as much as the present, practically each author and editor I spoke to had made a visit to the model’s Paris flagship on the Seine. (I purchased a pair of inexperienced sneakers on Tuesday, as quickly as I arrived on the town.) “It’s essentially the most lovely retailer in Paris,” one mentioned with a sigh. Fortunately, Van Noten will proceed to supervise retail in his new position, in addition to magnificence and different particular tasks. His successor has not but been named.
“He gave me style,” mentioned Beka Gvishiani, who runs the favored trend Instagram account @stylenotcom. “After seeing his reveals, I spotted what will be… I spotted what my style is and what I really like. Mainly, he taught me how one can costume. Costume Van Noten!”
“I like the truth that the garments transfer with you,” mentioned playwright Jeremy O. Harris, who was wearing a double-breasted pinstripe wool swimsuit from a current season with a blue sequin high beneath.
“[Dries] is a mockingbird,” added actor and editor Blake Abbie. “He travels the world and has all these unimaginable inspirations and celebrates them by way of his imaginative and prescient in a method that’s so respectful.”
After a cocktail dinner the place visitors swapped bittersweet recollections, a curtain opened to dramatically reveal an extended, shimmering runway coated in silver leaf. The present started with mannequin Alain Goussin, who walked Van Noten’s first-ever menswear present in 1993, and who, just like the 66-year-old designer himself, now has salt-and-pepper hair. Different acquainted faces included Karen Elson, Stefano Tartini, Kirsten Owen, and Hannelore Knuts.
In the course of the first portion of the present, an existential recording of David Bowie from the Moonage Daydream soundtrack echoed over the loudspeakers. “Time: one of the vital complicated expressions,” he mentioned. “Reminiscence made manifest.”
The gathering was so light-weight that it appeared to drift down the runway in sluggish movement. “I didn’t need to make outdated garments, and issues that are trying outdated,” Van Noten instructed reporters backstage. However, after all, there have been nods to the previous, particularly Dries Van Noten signatures like outsized suiting, vibrant colours, daring prints, and delicate gildings. Some seems to be featured suminagashi, a thousand-year-old Japanese print approach that interprets to “floating ink.” A handful of clear organza tops additionally “catch recollections,” in Van Noten’s phrases.
For the finale, fashions walked out collectively, arm in arm. Karen Elson might be seen wiping tears. When Van Noten got here out for his remaining bow, the viewers was already on their toes for a standing ovation. After Van Noten waved goodbye, a curtain dropped behind him to disclose a big disco ball. “I Really feel Love” by Donna Summer season performed, an indication that the celebration isn’t over fairly but.
