The Met Gala. Paris Couture Week. Beyoncé. In simply the final couple of years, Gaurav Gupta’s title has been talked about with every of those trending subjects, and the designer’s swirling creations have taken over the purple carpet. Within the vogue world, that makes you a legend. However whereas Gupta could sound like a whirlwind success, his story truly started 20 years in the past.
Upon graduating from London’s Central Saint Martins school, the designer returned to India to launch his namesake vogue model in 2004. On the time, India wasn’t precisely fashion-forward: the nation’s vogue trade was dominated by conventional Indian clothes or fundamental kinds impressed by Western vogue. Gupta’s creations don’t match into both class. As a substitute, the designer attracts upon conceptual themes like mythology, spirituality and surrealism, and his ensuing attire are equal components dramatic and complex.
As a substitute of counting on lavish elaborations as many Indian designers are inclined to do, Gupta’s robes make a press release with their sensual draping and sculpted silhouettes, achieved by a mix of conventional Indian craftsmanship and historic strategies utilized in European vogue, like corsetry.
Amongst his improvements is the sari-gown, a reinvention of the millennia-old Indian garment that Gupta has imbued with the benefit of a night robe. As a substitute of draping it round her physique and pleating the skirt herself, a girl carrying Gupta’s sari solely has to zip it up.
Unsurprisingly, Gupta’s saris are huge in India. The remainder of the world would know him for his signature swirl robes as a substitute. Gupta’s attire have famously been worn by Megan Thee Stallion on the 2022 Oscars; by Aishwarya Rai on the Cannes Movie Pageant in 2022; by Cardi B on the 2023 Grammys; and most lately, by Mindy Kaling on the 2024 Met Gala. Past the purple carpet, Gupta’s greatest movie star endorsement has come from Beyoncé: the singer wore a number of customized Gaurav Gupta ensembles, together with one of many aforementioned sari-gowns, throughout her Renaissance world tour final yr.
Whereas going viral is commonly seen as a short-lived success for vogue designers, Gupta additionally made his mark on vogue historical past. In 2023, he grew to become the second Indian designer ever to hitch the Paris Couture Week calendar. He was invited by the last word authority of the French vogue trade, the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode. In a way, Gupta lived as much as the title that was awarded to him at Rome’s vogue week, Altaroma, in 2003: the “Way forward for Couture”.
As a substitute of confining his vogue fantasy to the closed-off worlds of movie star and high fashion, Gupta has expanded his universe. He has launched a bridal line, a ready-to-wear line, and even menswear designs. Whereas nonetheless based mostly in New Delhi, Gupta additionally intends to carry his model to new markets just like the US, Europe and the Center East. This yr, the designer held a trunk present hosted by the Singaporean retailer Melange.
Under, we caught up with Gupta to study extra about how he’s revolutionising the Indian vogue trade, and what it’s like being a designer to the world’s greatest stars.
What drives your creativity?
GAURAV GUPTA (GG): I believe individuals who have the present to be artistic are naturally non secular individuals. Creativity is without doubt one of the highest types of spirituality. My inspiration comes from the universe, the cosmos, meteors, nature, abstraction, artwork, surrealism, sculpture and artists.
A lot of your collections draw from mythology, surrealism and fantasy. Why do you assume fantasy is critical to life?
GG: A lot of the world is so mundane. Persons are caught up in dealing with mundane life that they’re not capable of see the actual fantasy of what life and past have to supply. We don’t dwell within the surreal and our unconscious. Fantasy is alive on a regular basis, it’s simply that we’d like to have the ability to see it. I believe I used to be born to (present individuals this), not simply as a designer but in addition as an individual.
How do you spotlight India’s wealthy heritage of workmanship in your designs?
GG: I’ve 500 good artisans working with me, and we use very intensive Indian strategies.Our artisans have turn out to be distinctive artisans in themselves, as a result of we’ve taken Indian strategies, like zardozi, and made it not look Indian. These sorts of embroidery strategies are historic, however we do it in a futuristic approach. Steel casting has been performed in India eternally, however we’re making Kundalini sticks or a breastplate with it. Draping can also be one thing very pure to me; it’s very free and fluid. And draping is Indian. India is without doubt one of the solely locations the place the nationwide costume, the sari, continues to be being worn after 1000’s of years. You don’t see that wherever else on the earth. India continues to be an historic, residing “mindscape”. India is essential to me as a deeper, conceptual, non secular, tribal and ancestral area as nicely.
How has the Indian vogue trade advanced in on a regular basis that you simply’ve run your model?
GG: I’ve been a part of the change. I’m the change. Once I got here to India 20 years in the past, the whole lot was so conventional. It nonetheless fairly is in some methods, as a result of the Indian bridal market is the largest vogue market within the nation. Prepared-to-wear, particularly luxurious ready-to-wear, is evolving much more; plenty of worldwide manufacturers are coming into India. India is the following huge luxurious market on the earth, however it’s a sophisticated market as a result of it’s nonetheless very Indian. It’s by no means going to turn out to be like another [market in fashion]; it’s at all times going to stay as India. It’s very native. It’s one thing totally different altogether.
You’ve dressed a few of the greatest stars in each the East and West. Is there a distinction in designing for each?
GG: I’m in the midst of the world—I’m Japanese and Western, however on the identical time I don’t outline myself as both. I believe each side are on the lookout for innovation and celebration and freedom and infinity. And they’re able to resonate with these issues once they collaborate with us.
Beyoncé is clearly a giant fan. How would you describe your collaboration together with her?
GG: It’s surreal and exhilarating, however it seems pure as nicely. Once I began showcasing in Paris, I felt like I used to be at house. And once I’m doing these varieties of garments for Beyoncé—you already know, lots of people on-line even wrote that that is such an excellent mixture. It feels just like the artwork is discovering its house. I’m a fan of Beyoncé, in totality: how she is, the physique she has, the sunshine she emanates. She has that sense of going past and being infinite.
What did becoming a member of the Paris Couture Week calendar in 2023 imply to you?
GG: It’s a dream come true for any atelier on the earth. Paris Couture Week is the last word platform for vogue and artwork, and the approaching collectively of the 2. To showcase on the calendar with manufacturers which were round for a very long time may be very prestigious. I’m honoured to be making historical past.
You’ve run your vogue label for 20 years now. What are necessary qualities to have as a designer to make sure longevity?
GG: Numerous arduous work—there isn’t a shortcut to arduous work. Excessive perseverance. And a robust perception in your self. Being authentic is totally necessary; copying others or following tendencies gained’t take you a good distance. And have a strong enterprise mannequin and the perfect individuals working with you. Have a enterprise accomplice like my brother, who’s wonderful.
What’s subsequent within the pipeline in your model?
GG: I’m engaged on a number of collections proper now: India couture, Paris couture, ready-to-wear, the vacation assortment and menswear.
This story initially appeared within the June/July 2024 problem of GRAZIA Singapore and Grazia.Sg.
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